Back Upt' North

Next day, suitably rested and filled we set off on the road again. We’re heading back up to the mountain region, through the centre of the country this time, so on the other side of Mount Cook to before. Trev had told us how beautiful it was that way but as we got closer a damp grey mist of fog and drizzle descended and the views were largely obscured. Driving along Lake Pukaki we can still see how bright turquoise the waters are from the glacial flows but all else disappears in the mist. The huge hotel at Mount Cook is swarming with Japanese tourists but after a quick look in the DOC visitors centre we make our way back out of town to the DOC campsite. Rob agrees to us staying the night as its late afternoon and although the forecast isn’t great there is a slim possibility that we might get a view of the mountain in the morning, so we cook tea from within the van and watch the rain come down as the couple next door pitch their tent and then hide in the car.

The morning dawns bright and unexpectedly clear, so after Rob has had his now favourite breakfast of vegemite and avocado on toast (we’ve been down under too long!), we decide to take one of the shorter walks up to the glaciers. The waters are like pale clay with all the sediment and we walk on up to a small lake under Mount Cook where the views are beautiful but we’ve been spoilt viewing it from the other side and, after a spot of lunch, we’re happy to head back to the van and get back on the road, at least we’ve managed a bit of exercise.

Driving back round the end of Lake Pukaki we stop briefly to take in the bright waters again with the Mountain now making a fine backdrop in the distance but the whole scene is too bright for photos to do it any real justice and we carry on to Lake Tekapo. Another bright turquoise lake and the campsite right on the shores but we’re happy to pitch up under the shade of the trees and chill for the evening. The local sparrows are nothing if not cheeky and as soon as we are relaxing they flock around the van looking for food. Lucky for them we’ve just bought some bread and before long there must be 40 or so of them all getting closer and closer, even onto the step of the van. We eat corned beef and mash for tea, but Rob finds an odd lump in his which soon kills our appetites and even the sparrows won’t touch it. Later on Rob gives himself another haircut and provides them with some bedding material, then showered and rested we get some sleep.