Glaciers and Hospitality

Heading off early in the morning towards the glaciers the weather is still overcast and the cloud base low. We pass through Frans Josef and arrive in Fox Glacier which is buzzing with people all unable to access the glaciers and mountains due to the weather. We find the dropzone, happily surprised to see a familiar face working there. Mike, an Ozzy that we both first met skydiving over in Jersey, is working there as a tandem instructor. He introduces us to everyone, giving Rob the big sell as a top freeflier so Rod, the boss there warms to us immediately.

Next day we manage to get a jump in in the morning before it becomes too cloudy to jump. The views are spectacular even with some cloud, its quite alarming to see your altimeter reading 12000ft yet the ground is right below you as we get taken round the tops of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. With the weather not improving we go back to Frans Josef for a look around. We check out the cost of doing Glacier walks, then one of the guys at the dropzone has said it is cheaper in Fox and when we return there we find that it’s about two-thirds the cost. Rob has walked on Frans Josef before so we stop briefly en route to walk to the base of Frans Josef then book to do fox the next day.

Settling at the campsite the sky begins to clear and Rob spots the jump plane taking off so we head back to the dropzone. I’ve a headache so opt not to jump and by the time Rob is in the air the clouds have cleared completely and he gets a terrific view, right from the mountain tops down past the glacier itself. I’m kicking myself a bit but Ron suggests we nip in in the morning before doing the glacier walk as jumping starts at 7:30am… eek.

We’re back at the DZ for 7:15am but there is only going to be room for one of us before the walk due to the back log of tandems from the bad weather days. Rob generously lets me take the slot and I’m blessed with the most glorious views. Rod also insists that I follow out the tandem so I swoop down and dock on Mike after a little hesitation leaving the plane. I’m beaming as I’ve been putting off following out a tandem for probably a year so it’s a great hurdle to get over. Rob has to meet me at the landing site as we’ve only 15mins before we have to register for the walk, he’s bought a packed lunch and we’re soon kitted up with walking boots and crampons for the walk.

The walking boots must be the most knackered boots I’ve ever encountered, my soles are actually screwed on over the original worn out ones and the sides have big gaping holes in them. Rob’s are no better, there isn’t an alternative though so they will have to do. Our guide for the day is a german guy Martin, a slim sinewy guy, passionate about mountaineering and with a good sense of humour. His knowledge of the glacier is good, his purpose to guide us up the glacier, creating steps with his pick axe as he goes. We soon learn that he is as passionate about using his pick axe as he is about mountaineering as barely a moment passes without him swinging it wildly about showering us all in shards of ice. I’m not sure what was the more dangerous, making sure you didn’t slip down the glacial ice or trying to avoid the pick axe and associated ice shower, I’m inclined to think the latter.

We make it up and down the glacier unscathed, if a little sunburnt as the weather has been crystal clear all day. We get back to the dropzone and both manage to get on another lift, albeit apart. I follow Rod out this time and dock on him, Rob takes him out for a freefly jump headdown and he is buzzing when they both land. We’re invited down the pub with the rest of the crowd, as well as Rod aka Sarge there is Chris (Silver Fox), Rod (monster), Trev ( a British lad adopted by Rod and getting enough jumps in to be able to go for his tandem rating) and Glenn who is quite quiet at first but by now has opened up a bit regaling us with tales of sharks he has caught, deer he has hunted and snakes in the loft… handy bloke to have around.

A quick shower and supper of noodles and we’re down the pub, thanks to Chris we get “locals prices” which are less than half what we paid when we first got there. We’re entertained by Karaoke including Trev’s little girl but thankfully we manage to escape without having to embarrass ourselves that much. The plane is off for a service early next morning so there won’t be any jumping but Rod says if we’re up at 6:30am we can get a free lob as it leaves.

Early next morning then we wake to a knock on the van from Rod and I leave Rob to go jump with him, justifying that they will have more fun doing a two way without me (although secretly after the beer last night I’m after a bit more sleep!). When I finally stir Rob is tucking into breakfast cooked by Rod and I get treated to the same too. Free jumps and free cooked breakfast, we feel sad having to leave as we’ve been made so welcome, but with promises to return the favour some day we bid our goodbyes again and are back on the road.